Why are we seeing these things again? Hauntology, Fashion and Media.
In the realm of fashion, the concept of Hauntology, rooted in philosophy and critical theory, has manifested as a captivating exploration of the past echoing into the present. This poignant phenomenon is not merely a trend but a deep-seated connection to history, encapsulating the essence of nostalgia and the interplay of time in the world of style.
In the 2010s, the UK saw a nostalgic boom in a subculture titled “wavey garms” in the early 2010s. Based on a Facebook site to sell niche streetwear from that of the 90s and 80s, specially brands like Supreme, Stüssy, vintage pieces by Nike or even archive Raf Simons.
Hauntology in fashion draws its strength from a rich historical context, intertwining philosophical musings with a tangible sartorial expression. Designers, inspired by this concept, engage in a delicate dance with time, where the echoes of the past resonate in every stitch and silhouette. From the ghostly threads of tradition, a new narrative emerges—one that is both a homage to yesteryears and a bold leap into the future.
Beyond its philosophical roots, Hauntology in fashion holds profound cultural significance. It is a testament to a collective yearning for a tangible connection to history and authenticity. Consumers, seeking to transcend the ephemeral nature of trends, embrace garments that embody a sense of timelessness—a manifestation of Hauntology's influence on consumer behavior.
One example of this is Ladcore or Blokecore (taken from the words lad and bloke which are British slangs for the word “dude”). Which is a trending subculture style nostalgic for football culture of the 70s-early 2000s. This style however, has deep roots within British culture with influences rooted in working class everyday wear. What is jarring however, is when we see people from suburban American on TikTok dressed in this manner. Something that Creating an almost uncanny valley effect.
In the contemporary landscape, Hauntology finds a renewed resurgence as designers pivot towards UK-specific subcultures and media for inspiration. This shift is not a mere nod to the past but a deliberate act of reinterpretation. The influences of iconic subcultures, such as punk and mod, are woven into the fabric of current fashion, creating a dialogue between generations and epochs.
Examples of this too seen in music. 22 year old Pinkpantheress is an English singer and producer, even though these tracks sound like it could have been produced in the 90s they contain a multitude of nostalgic influences. She's known for her 90s UKG (2-step garage) inspired tracks, often even mixing it with hints of 2000s emo. Her track “Boy's a Liar” with American rapper Ice-Spice has since reached USA's Billboard's top 100, earning them a spot at number 3. This sound which was previously only until recently maintained popularity in the UK, have now garnered the interest of broader and more mainstream audiences.
The global impact of Hauntology in fashion cannot be overstated. Designers, irrespective of cultural backgrounds, draw inspiration from a shared well of nostalgia. The reinterpretation of past styles transcends geographical boundaries, forming a global tapestry of sartorial Hauntology.
Technological advancements and innovation play a pivotal role in shaping the Hauntological landscape of fashion. Digital platforms and social media propel the constant revisiting and remixing of past styles, providing a dynamic canvas for designers to weave the threads of history into contemporary creations.
However, as with any profound shift in the fashion landscape, Hauntology is not without its challenges. Criticisms ranging from cultural appropriation to concerns about sustainability underscore the complexities inherent in this trend. Acknowledging these challenges is imperative in fostering a nuanced understanding of the impact of Hauntology on the industry.
Looking to the future, the evolution of Hauntology in fashion remains an open question. Will it continue to shape design sensibilities, or will new paradigms emerge? As we navigate this ever-shifting terrain, one thing is certain: Hauntology in fashion invites us to reflect on the cyclical nature of trends and the enduring impact of the past on our sartorial present and future. It is not merely a trend; it is a haunting reminder that the ghosts of fashion's past are always present, influencing the designs that grace the runways and sidewalks of tomorrow.
Hauntology - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duration_(philosophy)
https://aesthetics.fandom.com/wiki/Blokecore
https://www.vice.com/en/article/pkpnxb/what-is-blokecore-tiktok-fashion-trend
https://thesciencesurvey.com/arts-entertainment/2021/06/22/the-slow-cancellation-of-fashion/
